Truffles in Umbria

It is well known that a truffle is the fruiting body of an underground fungus. I have to say I love them and every time I end up in the area I go crazy for them. The prized Italian black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) found from December to February can command eye-watering prices. From year to year there are marked changes in the market price, due to many factors, the most relevant being: freshness, which is very important as it is an extremely perishable product; size; ripeness; and last but not least, the quantity of the product that has been harvested. Depending on the climatic conditions, each year is different: if there was a significant lack of rain during the year, the truffles harvested will in consequence be fewer and smaller, so the price automatically goes up. Also, it is very hard to farm them. Acqualagna and Alba, together with Norcia are considered to be the ‘truffle centres’ of Italy.
Just last weekend, Norcia’s annual Truffle Fair took place, a national event focusing on the “black gold”, as truffles are also called. A panoply of colours, flavours, scents and the sense of being in a sort of food paradise, as each stall offers passers-by a taste of some delicious local product, not only truffle-related produce but a whole range of specialities that the area produces: hams, pecorino, lentils, honey… to name but a few.
This year in particular, the event marked a renaissance of this little Umbrian town following the disastrous earthquake that in October 2016 hit the town and its surroundings, destroying many ancient buildings, including the famous Basilica of S.Benedetto.
The Truffle Fair has always represented an awakening from the cold winter, but this year it symbolized something more, in the will and determination of the people of this area to find the strength and the energy to start again.
The Fair will also be on for the next two weekends in March, so if you are in the area do stop off there to have a look around. Needless to say, there are plenty of places where you can grab a delicious meal in any price range – from a Michelin-starred restaurant to the home-style cooking of traditional trattorias.